Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Danke, Papa - rewrite



(I took a short piece from a couple years ago and updated / rewrote it in anticipation of Father's Day)

James “Gigi” DeSimone earned his travel chops the hard way: dodging shrapnel and Nazis. He participated in the European theater during World War II and as a field medic on D-Day, saw nightmares of the unforgettable kind.

But my grandfather saw some other things in Europe that he could not forget; but those, he wanted to remember. He found them by exploring, when he was able. He sought out good experiences, thinking that all he knew of European life, days filled with explosions and gore, nights dripping with anxiety, couldn’t be the finality of existence across the Atlantic. 

Whether to protect us kids or to keep the unforgettable somewhat forgotten, he doesn’t talk about wartime much. What he does recount are his adventures that took him around France and Belgium, riding on trucks and meeting girls. He even had a girlfriend in Paris, which he likes to point out in front of my grandmother for a good laugh and eye roll. Michelle Dupont may still be waiting for him on, “one of those bridges over that river.”

When he returned from Europe, met my grandmother Alice and started a family, they shared a common love for travel. In their day, Nana and Papa were the avidest of avid world travelers. Mexico, Ireland, Italy, the world was their oyster - scratch that, my maternal grandmother is extremely allergic to shellfish - the world was their, let’s say, filet mignon.

Years slipped by and travel went away with the hearing, eyesight and easy mobility. They even squashed their annual snowbird migration to their beloved home in Florida (the Tin Can, as my cousins as I call it).

But nothing can hide the gleam that undoubtedly sparks in their eyes when they start reminiscing about their travels together. Nana has a hard time seeing, but I know she sees those mental pictures in high definition without any need for glasses.

The night before my wife and I left for our three-week European honeymoon, we visited my grandparents hoping to get a few travel tips and maybe a story or two.

They didn’t disappoint. Nana corrected Papa during a story about a salesman on a beach in Mexico who told my grandmother she was too grande to wear the shawls he sold out of his kiosk.

And then my grandfather got up and told us to wait a minute. He went to his room and came back holding a small 4 inch by 4 inch brown booklet and handed it to me.

On the tattered front cover were the words, German Language Guide.

I held it like it was made of crystal, afraid if I opened the cover the whole booklet would disintegrate in my palm. But Papa said to open it, so I did.

The inside cover reads:

War Department
Washington 25, D.C. 22 June 1943.
TM 30-306, German Language Guide, to be used with the Introductory Series Language Records, is published for military personnel only, and is not to be republished in whole or part without the consent of the War Department. By order of the Secretary of War:
G.C. Marshall, 
Chief of Staff.

He saved it for 67 years. This booklet had been with him throughout Europe and clearly had some wear and tear. I couldn’t help wondering how he used it, since my grandfather never actually proceeded into Germany with the Army. I ignored the thought and instead rapidly began flipping through it like a kid with a comic book.

On the next page was an Archie comics-esque cartoon depicting four G.I.s sitting around a record player, presumably practicing their German. Each one had a confounded look and the small Dachshund dog with them appeared to be howling at their ineptitude (the weiner dog was all over the booklet, I’m guessing he was the least offensive representative of German culture they could come up with in 1943). Humor was undoubtedly the theme. The comics run throughout, each one is of U.S. soldiers mocking each other for their poor bilingualism. There’s even a general in a bathtub that looks suspiciously like Wilford Brimley.

The possibly offensive cartoons led to outdated maps and a few dozen pages of common German words and phrases. All in all, it appeared to be quite a helpful piece of literature. Something I would actually find useful in Germany.

“That’s for you,” my grandfather said. “Take it with you.”

I was touched but my stupid practicality blurted out, “But we aren’t going to Germany. We’re doing France, Switzerland and Italy.”

He smiled and I couldn’t help but think he had something wise to impart upon me but withheld it, possibly knowing the merits of making the discovery on my own.

Instead he said, “Well I wish I kept the French one too.”

At a train station in Bern, Switzerland two weeks later, I emerged on the platform to signs written solely in German. My wife and I anticipated French and Italian along our journey, not factoring in the third language of the Swiss – but Papa had. Too bad I left the German booklet home. That was the last time I didn’t listen to my grandfather. That was the last time I didn’t take a little bit of him wherever I went.

Papa was the original adventurer in the family. He seized opportunity. He saw whatever he could, experienced whatever he could experience. And despite the horrors of war or the difficult times, the only memories he shares are unabashedly joyous and distinctly humorous. And of all the things he has given me, I cherish this outlook the most (his German booklet is a close second).

At the Smithsonian Air & Space museum in Washington, D.C. there is a World War II exhibit. There, somewhat out of the way of 1940s aircraft, is a display case with era memorabilia. The last time I was there, I noticed a small green booklet that looked vaguely familiar. It was the Japanese Language Guide. Next to it in blue was the French Language Guide. But nowhere in the case was the brown German booklet that I had tucked away safely at home.

I’m sure there are many out there somewhere and maybe someday I’ll offer to give mine to the museum. But for now, it’s not going anywhere except with me the next time I visit Europe. Just in case.

I’ve learned a very important word from it.

Danke. As in, danke Papa.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Monthly Column - Windy City Whirlwind

Check out my latest monthly travel column from the Wicked Local newspapers. May's edition: From giant skyscrapers to giant ferris wheels to giant beans, how to bring the large-scale scenery of Chicago, IL down to size. 

http://www.wickedlocal.com/saugus/newsnow/x2138754252/Wherever-it-Takes-column-A-Windy-City-whirlwind##axzz1vcLHWN2X


Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Guest Blog: Cheap Music in Vienna

Check out my Guest Blogger piece over on the great Where I've Been (and then sign up for their site!): http://blog.whereivebeen.com/2012/05/singing-in-streets-cheap-music-in.html

Great music and eats in Vienna, Austria!


You can also read the full text below from the Where I've Been blog


TUESDAY, MAY 15, 2012

Singing in the Streets: Cheap Music in Vienna, Austria


He was one of the most talented musicians I had ever heard. Sitting alone in front of his audience, his head bent in concentration over the cello. His fingers fluttered effortlessly in time with the bow and generated a haunting, complex melody. And he didn't even flinch when a black Mercedes zipped around him, horn blaring. You expect to find gifted musicians in Vienna, Austria, a city world-renowned for producing and nurturing many of history's greatest composers. You expect to attend a concert, hear the disciples of Mozart and Strauss practice their craft at the highest level. You do not expect to do so in the middle of a traffic circle. 

But Vienna's music culture is not allocated solely to expensive opera houses and ornate palace halls. Music and music's history are so much a part of Vienna, that standing room and street corners often offer easier and more authentic substitutes.

I stumbled upon the cello player one evening in Michaelerplatz, a round courtyard carved into a corner of the enormous Hofburg Palace. The setting itself juxtaposed the elaborate, baroque wing of the Hapsburg’s winter residence, deity-laded fountains and all, with the trappings of modern traffic patterns. A narrow road emerged from the bowels of the palace itself, shooting out from underneath an archway before skirting Michaelerplatz's circular perimeter and branching off into a series of quaint boulevards. 

In the center of this roundabout, across from some preserved ancient Roman ruins, a young man sat alone with his polished cello. He was dressed in a full tuxedo, his dark hair purposefully disheveled. He was accompanied by a small speaker at his feet and an open instrument case a few feet away. 

Michaelerplatz, a plaza at one end of the Hofburg Palace

We must have caught him between pieces because people were already gathered along the waist-high stone wall that dissects the plaza, forming a perfect audience pit.
I believe in joining any impromptu group gathered in a public place, especially when it involves a musician. The quantity and quality of a city’s street performers is a good indicator on whether or not the indoor entertainment is worth anything. At the very least, it’s fun for free. So I claimed an empty wall spot just before the cello strings began humming.

In an instant, Vienna lived up to its musical reputation. The man with the cello played effortlessly through three classical movements. His small speaker supported him with taped percussion and horn, but his strings were always the star.
He began with a slow-paced piece, drowned in emotion. He paused briefly for applause, tipped his head in recognition and launched immediately into a fast-paced staccato. He tipped the scales, leaning into each stroke with gumption. More than a few heads bobbed along, mine included. He wrangled in the energy level for the third piece and boomed out a vaguely familiar tune. It was then that a black Mercedes raced out from the archway, bathing the cello player in headlight. He embraced the unplanned spotlight by closing his eyes, craning back his neck and hitting the song’s climactic point. His bit of flare earned a collective, “ooh” from the onlookers. 

The Mercedes sped off, the cello player came to a rousing finish and twenty pedestrians erupted in applause. Without a word, he stood up from his stool, bowed, picked up his speaker and case and strolled away. In seconds, Michaelerplatz was empty.

I could not name any of the cellist’s pieces, nor did that matter. I had listened to beautiful music in the shadow of one of Europe’s most ornate buildings, played by a master artist drowned in a soft lamplight. The atmosphere rivaled any opera house.

Vienna's street performers are like no other
Which is not to say the Staatstoper, Vienna’s majestic opera house, should not be on everyone’s Austrian must-see list. There is a fair amount of chance associated with finding good street musicians. In Vienna, or Salzburg or Munich for that matter, the odds just happen to be greatly in your favor. 

But most visitors seeking that classic musical experience have no shortage of opportunity, either. As soon as you emerge from the subway in the city’s busy Stephensplatz, salesmen dressed in Renaissance garb bombard tourists and locals alike with talk of cheap opera tickets and dinner shows. They are unnecessary.

The only things you need to enjoy a night of fine music, are strong legs and an open mind, because the Staatstoper offers standing room tickets. It’s a trick located in many good guidebooks, but one well worth taking advantage of.
I am by no means an opera guy. But an hour and a half prior to show time, I lined up at the Staatsoper box office with a couple hundred other people, curious about what was waiting for me inside. Four Euro later, I was being shuffled by ushers to a waiting area outside the mezzanine. Forty-five minutes prior to curtain, we entered into the shimmering, golden hall. We claimed spots along one of the tiered railings set aside for the standing room customers (they say bring a scarf to tie on the rail to save your spot, but any scrap of cloth will do). The railings provide good leaning and even have small screens that scroll translations during the show. 

If there is a better view inside this gorgeous opera house, I didn’t see it. Center stage, elevated above the floor seats, this box should have been reserved for royalty. Instead, a hundred or so casually dressed deal-seekers stood gawking at the elaborate, lush décor. The rows of red boxes stacked encircled the hall like a lush, velvet-trimmed beehive, and buzzed with a similar excitement as they filled with opera enthusiasts. 
With the start of that night’s production, Die Frau Ohne Schatten (The Woman Without a Shadow for all you non-German speakers), an opera by Richard Strauss, I found myself ignoring the translation screen altogether and focusing on the powerful voices onstage. Mainly, I did so because the opera’s story made little sense to me; a strange Prince and the Pauper-esque tale of a barren woman who teleports and casts spells. But the composition was beautiful and unlike any other musical experience. So when I left after an hour and a half, during the first intermission, I felt completely satisfied with my four Euro investment. 
That evening ended the way any good Viennese night should end: sitting under an umbrella at an outdoor café, sipping a bright orange Aperol spritzer, noshing on a slice of cake and listening to urban chatter floating down pedestrian boulevards.

The Staatsoper, Vienna's ornate opera house
On the walk back to the hotel, I took the long way through Michaelerplatz, thinking maybe I could catch lightning in a bottle twice. I walked across the roundabout to where the cello player had sat the previous night. Tonight the stone plaza was empty. There was no audience lined along the half-wall.
But I had no reason for disappointment. For fewer than ten U.S. dollars, I attended the opera and listened to an immensely talented cellist, who by all rights could have charged admission. A win all around, even if the street musicians had taken the night off. 

Just as I turned to leave the plaza, a group emerged from a chapel on the other end of the roundabout. They formed a haphazard half-circle near a street lamp. And for the next thirty minutes, I leaned against the half-wall along a street in Vienna, and listened to an angelic choir.

Biography

Michael Hartigan is a freelance travel writer from Boston, Massachusetts. From San Francisco to Salzburg, he has explored and written about unique people, places and traditions. Michael's writing has been featured in the Arizona Republic, USA Today and in his monthly travel column published in a series of local Massachusetts newspapers, such as the Danvers Herald. He believes that you should go wherever it takes, but always come back with a good story. Follow his blog at www.whereverittakes.com and on Twitter @WhereverItTakes

Friday, May 4, 2012

Signs, Signs Everywhere the Signs

No matter where we go, what languages we attempt or what cultures we infiltrate, us travelers must always rely on the kindness of strangers. Or at least their words of wisdom. More often than not, those sage suggestions come printed, painted or carved on an infinite array of canvases.

No doubt, if you've traveled you've depended on a sign or two to get you where you're going. Road signs, business signs, exit signs, bathroom signs - silent communication brings the world together.

Signs give direction; but guiding the lost means much more than rights and lefts. When humans post words on a wall (or a tree or a gate or anything), it immediately adds weighty significance to whatever comedy or tragedy they're enacting. Whether hilarious or hear-wrenching, urgent or introspective, a good sign can provide a travel memory as unforgettable as any statue or museum.

What better way to make sure the world remembers your legacy than by carving it into a tree on top of a mountain? If you went through those lengths to tell us, it must be important. I should probably pay attention. I could learn something, get a good laugh or at the very least, find the way to where I'm going.

Here are some of my favorite signs I've encountered around the world.



Location: Outside Denver, Colorado at Buffalo Bill's grave site and souvenir shop, atop the Rocky Mountain foothills.
I tried to put this ad out in a newspaper and I did not get the response I was hoping for. As soon as you walk through the door of the restaurant/souvenir shop (which sells fantastic bison meat hot dogs), you feast your eyes on this old-time want ad, straight out of a Western saloon. Why is this my favorite? Because if this describes a "good woman," what makes a "great woman"?


 
Location: Lover's Leap, The Black Hills in South Dakota
One of the most beautiful viewpoints in America, this sign is tacked on a tree near the precipice of Lover's Leap. From this vantage point, after a short hike through the Black Hills, the entire wooded region of South Dakota's southwest corner sprawls out before you. I printed out this photo and hung it in my office because if these aren't words to live by, I don't know what are. 


 Location: Black Friars Pub, London, UK
London's world famous pubs serve some of the best cask-pumped ale in the world. Creamy and stout, these libations are only half of the Black Friar's charm. A warm, old atmosphere mingles with a rowdy clientele to make a classic British pub. And in the back room, up against a mirror wall is a sign that I wholeheartedly agree with. England is home to some of history's most talented, creative and crafty wordsmiths. But I doubt any of them could say it better than this.


Location: The Jungfrau (Top of Europe), Switzerland
The Swiss clearly are confident you'll obey their signs, because the thin rope preventing you from mimicking the poor soul within the red triangle certainly isn't providing much extra protection. Two steps past this sign and you become a permanent part of the glacier that sprawls far into the distance. Everywhere you look is the most beautiful thing you've ever seen up atop the Jungfrau. Just also be careful to look where you're walking.


  
Location: Lake Konigsee, Berchtesgaden, Germany
This sign doesn't have as much to do with it's location as it does for what it stands for: beer garden. Anywhere in Bavaria, or anywhere in Germany, Austria or Illinois for all I care, a sign that says "Beer Garden" is a sign you must obey. This particular beer garden skirts the edge of Lake Konigsee, Germany, the most pristine lake in Europe, nestled under soaring alpine mountains in a whimsical Bavarian setting. But of course, this sign means beer - good beer. See the sign, follow the sign.
 

Location: Corniglia, Cinque Terre, Italy
It may not seem while you're doing it, but after scaling 382 stone steps in the blazing sun a little congratulations is a nice gesture. You may want to swear at this sign while your calf muscles scream, but once atop this seaside village outcrop, the breathtaking views will calm all anger and salve any pain. Everywhere in the Cinque Terre in jaw-droppingly gorgeous. But it's always nice to have the locals recognize you've done at least some work to enjoy their treasures.


Location: The Badlands, South Dakota 
Being from New England, we don't typically run into many rattlesnakes. Which is why a giant, bold sign that screams, "BEWARE RATTLESNAKES!" sort of catches you off guard. I must say, it worked, because during my entire hike through the moonscape Badlands, I threw rocks at every stick I saw on the ground. Didn't see any diamondbacks, but nevertheless hiking in this corner of America was an invigorating experience.




Location: The Turquoise Trail, between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico
The Turquoise Trail, the scenic route between Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico, is a haven for artists and ghost towns alike. And apparently, some jokers. In one of the artsy villages, rows and rows of intricate, colorful mailboxes lined the street sides. But one person decided to go the opposite route, and decorate the other side of his mailbox.



Location: Top of Nevada Falls, Yosemite National Park, California
Similar to the Jungfrau, I enjoy this warning atop Nevada Falls in Yosemite because that knee-high railing really isn't doing much to prevent some fool from stumbling into the whitewater and being shot out over Yosemite Valley. That bridge in the distance is over the falls, so disobeying this sign is the last middle finger to authority you'll ever flip, right before you flip into oblivion. The panorama from up here is incredible, though.


  Location: Dachau Concentration Camp, Dachau, Germany
 "Work makes you free" was what prisoners in this notorious Nazi concentration camp saw as the literal gateway to the outside world. Even today, this powerful symbol of blind intolerance stops visitors in their tracks. For more on Dachau, read here http://www.whereverittakestravel.blogspot.com/2012/03/poplars-3101.html


 Location: Docks at Alcatraz Island, San Francisco, California
Infamous Alcatraz was known for many things, mostly its slew of famous prisoners and haunting urban legends. But the welcome sign on the docks remains one of the creepiest moments of a trip to the island. It comes into view when you first step off the boat and reminds you that, although it is now, this was not meant to be a tourist stop by any means. The graffiti scrawled around it is a staunch reminder of the later use of the island, when Native Americans gathered here in protest, making it a commune of sorts for freedom fighters. It's a significant piece of Americana, in a place that still mystifies many Americans.




Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Managing Chicago




Everything about Chicago is huge.

America’s tallest building dominates the city's recognizable skyline. Lake Michigan challenges the horizon like an endless freshwater ocean. You could replace a tire on a Humvee with a Chicago deep-dish pizza. The Cubs haven’t won a World Series in 103 years, the longest championship-less streak in American professional sports. And within city limits, you'll find a giant Ferris wheel, a giant bean and a giant Marilyn Monroe.

Whatever it is, Chicago does it big.
Undoubtedly, the Windy City is a lot to take in. With so much culture, so much personality and so much to see, stuffing it all into one weekend trip would be akin to stuffing William "Refrigerator" Perry into a pair of skinny jeans. With exceptional effort it could be done, but there will be uncomfortable chaffing.

Nonetheless, the grandeur and diversity of America’s third largest city does play in her favor: each site and each neighborhood has a feel all its own and can be enjoyed as such. So if you view Chicago as a series of destinations within a destination, you'll never leave feeling like you missed something and you'll always have a good reason to go back.

But with limited time, a city such as this comes with a fair share of intimidation. Where to go first? Who has the best food? What gives a good sense of the Second City? Was Donald Trump compensating for something with that towering, steel-girdered homage to luxury capitalism he erected on North Wabash Avenue?

Regardless of the city’s breadth and reach, there are some stops that encapsulate this all-American city’s many flavors. And as survival experts will tell you: when in doubt, follow the river.

The Chicago River Architecture Tour given by Wendella Boat Tours provides an easy avenue from which to begin a Windy City whirlwind. The boat sails up and down the Chicago River's arms and then out to Lake Michigan, where happy riders get several panoramic views of the city. Your tour guide’s knowledge of city history and architectural styles is just as impressive as the colossal skyscrapers enveloping the riverbanks. The city’s rich past, from politics to pizza, shines a light on the entrepreneurial spirit and fearless nature of its inhabitants. By disembarkation, you’ve glimpsed most of the city’s famous landmarks and formulated a mental guide map from which to further explore.

Wendella’s boat dock lies underneath the Wrigley building, a business staple from days gone by; across Michigan Avenue a massive statue of Marilyn Monroe a la The Seven Year Itch welcomes blushing tourists who (some demurely and some way too eagerly), pose for a photo under her windblown dress.

Anchoring one side of this plaza is the Chicago Tribune, a building significant in its own right even if it wasn’t home to one of the world’s foremost newspaper companies. The builders collected an impressive array of stones from international landmarks – The Coliseum, Edinburgh Castle and the Great Pyramids, just to name a few – and embedded them into the outer walls. A trip around the building perimeter is a trip around the world and a representation of Chicago’s cultural crossroads.

For a taste of one of those cultures, walk west from the Tribune Tower following Illinois Street for about six blocks to Lou Malnati’s on North Wells Street. There are buses, but you’ll need the walk to work up an appetite. Don’t worry; a deep dish pizza from here will quickly replace any burnt calories. The butter crust with sausage is a filling, working man's meal (a small size is enough for two people). Like the city itself, the classic dish is hearty and traditional blue collar fare. The astonishingly delicious tomato sauce actually stands out, even amongst an oozing morass of bubbling cheese. If you don’t leave satisfied, it’s your own fault.

With a belly full of butter crust, you’ll relish strolling back east toward the lake and the famous Navy Pier. An enormous old Ferris wheel, carousel, boardwalk and boat rides – this is the Midwest’s take on Santa Monica or Coney Island. Enter through the red arch, grab a beverage and sip your way along the breakers, through a fun and flirty atmosphere of trinket shops, food hawkers, funhouses and even the Shakespeare Theater. Navy Pier is touristy, but in all the right ways, culminating with its point jutting into Lake Michigan for stunning lighthouse and lake views. Or turn around, camera in-hand, for a breathtaking Chicago panorama.

Somewhere in that panorama sits Millennium Park, worth a visit for its beautiful combination of greenery and art, and a nice wind-down after Navy Pier’s excitement. People flock around the massive, reflective sculpture that serves as the park’s centerpiece, known fondly as “The Bean.” Actually named “Cloud Gate,” this polished sculpture by artist Anish Kapoor bounces images of people and building into crazy angles, resulting in amazing photographs and skyline visions.

Another art piece can be found nearby, where two columns stand amidst a shallow wading pool, each covered in video boards and water cascading from above. Each column is a mosaic of a human face that twitches (creepy) and intermittently squirts water into the central wading pool (creepier). Who said modern art had to mean something?

To get away from the spouting faces, head a few blocks from Millennium Park toward the Magnificent Mile (Michigan Avenue) and a taste of cosmopolitan Chicago. On you’re your way swing into Sweetwater for a happy hour cocktail. This sheik, modern bar/restaurant is perfect for outdoor lounging on a nice afternoon, watching the rush hour commuters hustle by. You’ll be refreshed by the time you spill onto the Magnificent Mile, skipping past Saks and Michael Kors, Nike Town and Nordstroms. But be sure to notice the free treasures the boulevard provides seasonally, from holiday lights to a dazzling array of springtime tulips.

Once all the day’s snapshots have been snapped and tour guides talked out, lounging in a leather chair by a fireplace with a gin martini in hand seems just plain appropriate. A quick bus ride takes you away from downtown to the Lakeview neighborhood, where a bar called Wilde waits on North Broadway. Filled with tattered books, this bar named after literary giant Oscar Wilde has the ambiance of an old English library in the midst of one of the city’s most vibrant neighborhoods. A nod to the old embraced by the new, in typical Windy City style.  

Chicago’s activities are as diverse as they are memorable, offering unique experiences where most big cities sell only homogeny. Consuming everything on a short stay might be as ill-conceived as a swim in the Chicago River.

So Chicago is big; so what? It is manageable. Go ahead, take a few big bites and get a taste of this Midwest metropolis. You can always go back for more.




Friday, April 20, 2012

City Flowers, Chicago

In honor of this weekend's Earth Day, I've posted some great photos of city flowers from downtown Chicago. There was a stunning contrast along the Magnificent Mile of urban and rural, with vibrant tulips running alongside shoppers, commuters and traffic.







Friday, April 6, 2012

Arizona Republic - Cinque Terre mudslides: Residents rebuilding to welcome tourists

http://www.azcentral.com/travel/articles/2012/03/12/20120312cinque-terre-italy-mudslides-rebuilding-volunteers.html

My piece from the Arizona Republic appeared in the Sunday paper on April 8, 2012 about beautiful Vernazza, Italy in the Cinque Terre and their rebuilding efforts due to 2011 mudslides.


VERNAZZA, Italy - The bells of Vernazza's clock tower drowned out Michele Sherman as she tried to describe the ghost town that her adopted seaside home had become. She apologized and spoke louder into the phone, calling-card minutes drifting away like unmoored dinghies.
"I'm looking at the beach right now and I'm seeing half a car literally sticking out of the sand," she said. "It's surreal."
Cars normally were kept on the outskirts of this tiny coastal Italian village, as is the case in most of the five towns that make up the Cinque Terre.
That was before torrential rains on Oct. 25, 2011, caused the terraced hills above Vernazza and neighboring Monterosso to unleash devastating mudslides. Now, construction vehicles enter the town to dig out the 14 feet of mud and debris that buried Vernazza, killed three people and shattered the tourism-based economy.
Despite the region's popularity, there has been little coverage of this catastrophe, frustrating residents like Sherman. An hour before our phone call, she said, she flagged down a car of tourists attempting to drive into town. She explained why the hotels and restaurants were closed.
"There's no big sign that says, 'Hey, this is what happened,' " she said.
Residents resolved to tell the world and foster support for restoring Vernazza. Their focus, Sherman said, is to "attract people that are not only interested in the beach and sun, but in the experience, the history, and wanting to not only visit here but be part of the life here."
An American expatriate, Sherman embodies that philosophy. She visited the Cinque Terre on her 35th birthday, fell in love and never left.
I visited Vernazza in 2010 but, unlike Sherman, I had to leave. This treasured corner of northwestern Italy left a strong impression on me all the same.
Crown jewel
The five villages that make up the Cinque Terre -- Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso -- hang from the train line like grape bunches on a vine. Each village builds upon itself, heaped over craggy outcrops and smothered from above by terraced vineyards and groves. The vibrantly colored houses are like wooden blocks stacked by a child's hand, haphazard and precarious.
Vernazza was the crown jewel. With warm breezes, salty air, postcard sunsets, luxurious local seafood and the chatter of Italians at play, the town pricked every sense.
My wife and I, newly married, were enjoying the last night of our European honeymoon. We almost did not stop in Vernazza. If we hadn't, we would have missed a moment such as travel junkies dream about.
We were relaxing at a cafe on the main plaza watching children catch jellyfish (jellypesca, to hear them yell it) along the breakers when a street musician plucked a few warm-up notes on his guitar.
"Yeah, dumb and drunk as I was, you know I'd do it all again," he sang.
Before my wife comprehended the lyrics, I had vaulted the bistro table with two euros in hand. The musician was older, with long, dusty brown hair tucked under a black bandanna. He smirked when I tossed the money into his guitar case and told him to play another song by Roger Clyne and the Peacemakers.
In a tiny Italian village of 500 residents, a street musician sang the music of our favorite band.
Universal language
His name was Terry, and he was from Colorado. He and his family were traveling across Europe, playing in public places for fun, not expecting recognition or money. Certainly not expecting anyone in Italy to know Roger Clyne's hit "Switchblade." He pried from us our favorite Clyne song, "Beautiful Disaster," and gestured for us to grab a seat.
And suddenly there was a crowd watching Terry and family launch into a full set of American rock and roll.
An older couple began dancing in the middle of the moonlit piazza. My wife and I were urged onto the makeshift dance floor. Without really knowing what we were doing, we were waltzing over the cobblestones to our favorite song. We don't know how to waltz.
The moment was romantic in its simplicity: music, moonlight and sea mist. No digital camera captured the tear that dropped from my wife's eye.
Afterward, Terry thanked us before we could thank him. That crowd was his biggest yet. He came to Vernazza seeking memorable experiences. Vernazza obliged.
"Music unites people all over the world," he said.
More than a year later, after that same cobblestone piazza was unearthed from under 14 feet of mud and debris, music is helping bring the outside world to Vernazza.
Raising money
In the aftermath of the October disaster, Michele Sherman, Michele Lilley and Ruth Manfredi, all American transplants to Italy, formed Save Vernazza ONLUS, an Italian non-profit organization aimed at raising funds for Vernazza's rebuilding and preservation.
To date, they have raised about $186,430 from individual private donors. The organization estimates that the floods caused more than $133 million in damages.
According to Sherman, Vernazza averages 2.5 million visitors a year, 1 million of them American tourists. And from that pool, they sought support.
Sherman, a former bed-and-breakfast owner, downloaded 30,000 e-mail addresses from her business and reached out to former guests and friends, including travel expert Rick Steves. She credits him with helping her spread the word about the region's road to recovery.
"Tourism is the lifeblood of the Cinque Terre's economy," Steves told me. "And while private and government money is essential for Vernazza to rebuild, that won't be enough. Even if Vernazza has fewer shops and rooms open this summer, that's no reason for travelers to stay away from this wonderful corner of Italy. Across the five villages, there will be plenty of rooms available and great travel discoveries to be made."
Lilley connected with friend Lisa McLaughlin, a Cinque Terre frequenter and concert merchandise manager for several artists, including Peter Frampton.
"I had the idea of donating some items to them to help raise funds," McLaughlin said. "When I asked (Frampton), he was happy to sign some things for them, and when I came back to the States, I contacted more of my friends in the entertainment world."
The bounty from McLaughlin's musical connections includes autographed books, CDs, photos and other items from artists such as Garth Brooks, Trisha Yearwood and Lady Antebellum. The memorabilia is part of Save Vernazza's online auction, going on now at www.savevernazza.com. The group plans to follow that with an auction of local artwork, set to begin in the last week of April.
Coming back to life
With utilities coming back online, residents are moving back and businesses are slowly reopening their doors. Most plan to be ready by May to coincide with the start of the heavy tourism season.
"Visits here are a donation in and of themselves," Sherman said.
Visits also are a reward. I can still hear Terry singing, "You know I'd do it all again." And we will, thanks to those working to restore Vernazza.
For Michele Sherman, the music never left.
"I didn't realize how much I loved the bells until I went away from them," she said. "Even among all the destruction, it was the one constant. Even after all that, you still hear the bells."
Michael Hartigan is a freelance travel writer. Follow him atwww.whereverittakes.com or on Twitter @WhereverItTakes.



Vernazza, Italy 

Vernazza, Italy

Boats in Vernazza's harbor


Street musicians in Vernazza's plaza, jamming away to Roger Clyne & The Peacemakers music