Rare books and even rarer moments

Rare books and even rarer moments

By Michael Hartigan

The gargoyle next to me atop Paris’ Notre Dame Cathedral bared a permanent, toothy grin. I smiled along with him, as we both gazed out at the gift spread before us: a Parisian panorama chock full of the things that embody the City of Light. There were elegant Parisian rooftops; the Eiffel Tower piercing the sky in the distance; the glistening River Seine ducking around towers, museums and teapot domes. And unassuming amongst the surrounding grandeur, was a little bookshop over on the Left Bank.

Perhaps it was due to the gargoyle next to me, or the signs I had just read about Victor Hugo, but seeing the Shakespeare & Company bookstore gave the moment an immediate air of the literary.

I had been in the bookshop earlier. The old paper musk that filled the Shakespeare & Company bookstore lingered, in a good way, much like the ghosts of famous writers that had frequented the shop. That old bookstore was graced by the likes of Walt Whitman and countless other renowned authors over the years. On the upper level, a small bed, desk, sink and typewriter still sit, free of charge for any upstart or struggling writer to utilize.

Shakespeare & Company is still visited by all kinds – from writers and book lovers, to the average tourist stopping in for a look around the tattered copies. And there are plenty, with old books stacked around the store just waiting to be thumbed through.

I heard a woman say out loud that she should purchase something for her son who liked William Shakespeare. His favorite was, “that one that starts with an ‘O.’” She must have missed the copy of Othello right in front of her, but I didn’t. To this day, few purchases I’ve ever made have given me the same amount of chills as the 100-year-old copy of Othello I snatched up that day.

A good bookstore, like Paris’ Shakespeare & Company, does so much more than sell books. A good bookstore is a meeting place, a library, a study hall and experimental laboratory for writers past, present and future. A good bookstore is an icon of a bygone era when the musty smell of old paper and leather bindings was revered.

A good bookstore is the city in which it resides.

Shakespeare & Company may be named after a British literary legend, but you know you’re in Paris when you peruse its shelves. The tomes are stacked and strewn in such a way that at first feels cluttered but upon second glance, is supremely beautiful. The antique feeling of the place is museum-like, in a way that is distinctly Parisian. Like the city itself, the shop is well-trodden and imbued with historical significance, but still distinctly intimate.  

So many local bookshops around the globe play a similar role in their own communities. They offer a glimpse into the people and history of a place through their aesthetic and ambiance, through the traditions they uphold and through the local authors they cherish.

For example, in Quebec City, Canada hockey paraphernalia filled the floor to ceiling windows of a bookstore, revealing the owner’s unsurprising love of a professional hockey team long-since moved to a warmer climate. But it revealed the city’s staunch devotion to the game, the region’s tradition and stubborn refusal to allow the memory of their team to fade.

Conversely, in Vienna, Austria a bookstore on a main pedestrian thoroughfare displayed items and books that did not shy away from history’s darker moments. Sitting in the front window, an old children’s book depicted cartoon stereotypes and offensive slurs, challenging all to confront the shadows of the region’s past while acknowledging that full progress remains a goal not yet achieved. 

A book fair in the picturesque town of St. Andrews, Scotland sprawled out across a central square, with carts and bins filled with books. I got lost among them only to find myself down a side road, standing in front of a tiny bookstore. I could barely maneuver inside with my backpack on, afraid to knock over the piles of old books. I lost track of time shuffling through the innumerable copies of old, antique books written by local Scottish writers – some well-known and some not at all.

Perhaps the bookstore that fits most perfectly into its surrounding neighborhood is San Francisco’s eclectic City Lights Bookstore. This beat poet hangout is a hip confluence of varying styles resulting from a collision of cultures, demographics and neighborhoods. I strolled around this iconic hotspot expecting Alan Ginsberg to walk in. The bookstore embodies San Francisco itself, blending history with myriad traditions in a unique, well-crafted and unforgettable concoction.

Travel and literature have been inextricably linked since the dawn of language, from Homer’s epics to Twain’s river excursions to Conrad’s journey into the heart of Africa. My own novel, Stone Angels, is in many ways a journey story: embracing the power of travel in the form of a road trip, escaping from one’s comfort zone, shrugging off the warm sweater that is our daily lives, and arriving at a new perspective. Thematically, travel is one of literature’s greatest tropes.

So it is fitting that a bookstore – more specifically, a local brick and mortar bookstore – is one of the most unique and powerful stops on any traveler’s itinerary.

A Viennese Trio: Music, Opulence and Decadence

The following appeared in the June, 2014 issue of Destinations Travel Magazine
http://www.destinationstravelmagazine.com/June2014/#/92

Vienna, Austria does three things better than anywhere else: music, opulence and decadence. Opera houses, palaces and sumptuous desserts are the tangible reflections of a history rich with tradition and royalty.

But what does Vienna really do better than anywhere else? Make music, opulence and decadence accessible to those of us not named Hapsburg. The treasures of Vienna are there for the taking, no matter what your wallet size.

When it comes to music, music history and musical experiences, Vienna is unrivaled. The Staatstoper, Vienna’s majestic opera house, should be on everyone’s European must-see list. The building is the very essence of extravagance, beginning with its grand exterior that shimmers like a jewel at night. The plush interior spills into the main hall and onto the stage where performances from around the world continue this city’s great musical tradition. Tickets for a show can be purchased from any number of venues, including the ticket hawkers accosting most tourists outside of the busiest train stations.

But inexpensive music is just as easily attainable in Vienna. Street musicians abound here, and they are more talented and freer than most any other musician you’d find in Europe. The aforementioned Opera House, with its beautiful soaring façade and eclectic mix of world-renowned performances, offers day-of standing room tickets for just a few euro. And the standing room section just happens to be one of the best seats in the house, located center-stage elevated behind the sprawling floor.

As evidenced by the Staatsoper, extravagant architecture abounds in Vienna. You can't throw a schnitzel here without hitting a haughty homestead, typically one associated with the famous Hapsburg royal family. Palaces and cathedrals adorn the city and its outskirts like gems in a crown.

Gargoyles and elaborate gothic detailing embellishes the outside walls and spires of St. Stephen's Cathedral, one of Vienna’s eerie beauties. The real wow moment, though, comes from the top of the cathedral when you look down upon the roof. Like dragon scales, the colorful tiles shimmer in bright greens, yellows and reds. The mosaic forms the traditional Hapsburg double-eagle, along with the coats of arms for the city and country.

But the most undeniably beautiful location in Vienna is Schönbrunn Palace.

Schönbrunn’s immensity and beauty makes it that much more impressive. It is worth the price of admission to tour its elaborate corridors, ornate halls and gilded music rooms, but be sure to spend time strolling the palace gardens. The villa’s yellow exterior pops against the blue Austrian sky and rows of intricately arranged springtime flowers explode with color. Get lost amidst its labyrinth of footpaths, stopping at various statues and looming fountains. And be sure to scale the hill at the far end for an exceptional view of the palace and the city beyond. It's a truly breathtaking plot of land, made even more so by the awesome palace at its hub.

Instead of paying for the zoo located on the grounds, just walk along the pathway running behind the menagerie. It inclines up and around, allowing visitors to down through the fence for glimpses of rhino, otters, a few herds of hoofed creatures and a giant raptor bird.

Back in the city, you don’t need a ticket to wander through the streets gawking at striking architecture. To get a real sense of royal city living, go to Hofburg Palace, the Hapsburg’s winter city residence. Sit in the park opposite this massive white structure or stroll beneath its archways and past the horse stables where stars of the Spanish Riding School live.

Decadent meals, particularly pastries and cakes, cap off any long day of strolling pedestrian-friendly corridors. The city is known for the original Sacher-Torte, one of the most famous confections in the world. Since 1832 the Sacher Hotel, itself a gorgeous example of Viennese style, has been serving slices of this rich chocolate cake filled with a thin layer of apricot jam and coated with chocolate icing. As decadent desserts go, the original Sacher-Torte is a crowning achievement.

But if you can’t get a seat in the hotel’s café, there are still plenty of opportunities for an after-dinner treat. Stop at any of the outdoor cafés along the pedestrian walks, many near St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and pick a cake slice from their menu. It will be delicious, especially accompanied by a cocktail, and the buzz from passers-by will make for exciting outdoor ambiance.

Away from many of the glitzy examples of Viennese opulence and decadence, sits a grittier, more whimsical reflection of the city’s traditional grandeur.

The Prater, a large public park in the Leopoldstadt district,  is home to one of the world’s oldest amusement parks – and an impressive one at that. The massive, sprawling carnival houses rollercoasters, funhouses, a train ride, carnival games and every amusement park and kiddie ride imaginable. Enjoy traditional food and drink amidst traditional fairytale scenery and characters. 

Access to the Prater is free (individual attractions charge), making it one of the best ways to engage with Vienna. Like any typical carnival there is music tinkling through the air. Opulence here comes in the form of neon lights and over-the-top funhouses. And the food is just as decadent as anything you’ll find at the Saccher Hotel.

But there is a fun, lighthearted flare to the Prater that is absent from many other locales in Vienna. It doesn’t take itself too seriously, such as at the bumper car venue with the U.S.A. theme - it is decorated with a laughable array of American stereotypes, from the Hollywood blonde to the Texas cowboy.

The crown jewel is the Vienna Riesenrad, or Giant Ferris Wheel. Built in 1897, it is just as much as part of the city’s history and identity as St. Stephen’s Cathedral or the Saccher Torte. The Giant Ferris Wheel encompasses all the best traits of Vienna, and offers quite the view in the process.

Whether you’re leisurely ambling past a priceless palace or screaming around a Prater rollercoaster, you can be sure that music, opulence and decadence are everywhere in Vienna. And you don’t have to be descended from the Hapsburgs to enjoy every bit of it.

Night moves: Travel photos after dark

My five favorite structures to photograph at night. 

Just because the sun goes down, doesn't mean your camera has to go away. Night time brings out colors, light, shadows and movements impossible to capture during the day. And with modern cameras, anyone can snap clear photos after dark. 

But given the propensity for action shots to blur in low light, I find static objects to be excellent evening subjects. Not to mention, some of the most beautiful things in the world are man-made structures. And as tourist attractions go, the most popular ones around the world more than likely have already perfected the art of nighttime mood lighting. 

The Vienna Opera House was one of the most extravagant buildings I had ever seen, naturally. In a city where music and architecture move together like two ballroom dancers, there are bound to be stunning sights around every corner. When the sunlight dims and the street lights buzz on, the whole city comes erupts into new life. The Opera House is just one of the more beautiful uplit structures, almost surreal in its effervescent glow.

Vienna is not alone in its knack for nighttime sights. Visit the Harp bridge in Dublin in between pubs or grab a gellato in front of Rome's Pantheon - two well-known tourist stops that take on a whole new light after dark. Two of the most well-known buildings in the world - the Eiffel Tower and the United States Capitol building in Washington, D.C. - are prime examples of the transformative power of nighttime.

So I say get out there at night and try out some of those strange settings on your point-and-shoot or your iPhone. The night belongs to the adventurous.

Below are five of my favorite spots to snap nighttime pictures.

Statsopera, Vienna, Austria

Harp Bridge, Dublin, Ireland

U.S. Capitol, Washington, DC

The Pantheon, Rome, Italy

Eiffel Tower, Paris, France