The following appeared in the June, 2014 issue of Destinations Travel Magazine
http://www.destinationstravelmagazine.com/June2014/#/92
Vienna, Austria does three things better than anywhere else: music, opulence and decadence. Opera houses, palaces and sumptuous desserts are the tangible reflections of a history rich with tradition and royalty.
But what does Vienna really do better than anywhere else? Make music, opulence and decadence accessible to those of us not named Hapsburg. The treasures of Vienna are there for the taking, no matter what your wallet size.
When it comes to music, music history and musical experiences, Vienna is
unrivaled. The Staatstoper,
Vienna’s majestic opera house, should be on everyone’s European must-see list.
The building is the very essence of extravagance, beginning with its grand
exterior that shimmers like a jewel at night. The plush interior spills into
the main hall and onto the stage where performances from around the world
continue this city’s great musical tradition. Tickets for a show can be
purchased from any number of venues, including the ticket hawkers accosting
most tourists outside of the busiest train stations.
But inexpensive music is just as easily
attainable in Vienna. Street musicians abound here, and they are more talented
and freer than most any other musician you’d find in Europe. The aforementioned
Opera House, with its beautiful soaring façade and eclectic mix of
world-renowned performances, offers day-of standing room tickets for just a few
euro. And the standing room section just happens to be one of the best seats in
the house, located center-stage elevated behind the sprawling floor.
As evidenced by the Staatsoper, extravagant
architecture abounds in Vienna. You can't throw a schnitzel here without
hitting a haughty homestead, typically one associated with the famous Hapsburg
royal family. Palaces and cathedrals adorn the city and its outskirts like gems
in a crown.
Gargoyles and elaborate gothic detailing
embellishes the outside walls and spires of St. Stephen's Cathedral, one of
Vienna’s eerie beauties. The real wow moment, though, comes from the top of the
cathedral when you look down upon the roof. Like dragon scales, the colorful
tiles shimmer in bright greens, yellows and reds. The mosaic forms the
traditional Hapsburg double-eagle, along with the coats of arms for the city
and country.
But the most undeniably beautiful location
in Vienna is Schönbrunn Palace.
Schönbrunn’s
immensity and beauty makes it that much more impressive. It is worth the price
of admission to tour its elaborate corridors, ornate halls and gilded music
rooms, but be sure to spend time strolling the palace gardens. The villa’s yellow
exterior pops against the blue Austrian sky and rows of intricately arranged
springtime flowers explode with color. Get lost amidst its labyrinth of
footpaths, stopping at various statues and looming fountains. And be sure to
scale the hill at the far end for an exceptional view of the palace and the
city beyond. It's a truly breathtaking plot of land, made even more so by the
awesome palace at its hub.
Instead of paying for the zoo located on
the grounds, just walk along the pathway running behind the menagerie. It
inclines up and around, allowing visitors to down through the fence for glimpses
of rhino, otters, a few herds of hoofed creatures and a giant raptor bird.
Back in the city, you don’t need a
ticket to wander through the streets gawking at striking architecture. To get a
real sense of royal city living, go to Hofburg Palace, the Hapsburg’s winter
city residence. Sit in the park opposite this massive white structure or stroll
beneath its archways and past the horse stables where stars of the Spanish
Riding School live. Decadent meals, particularly pastries and cakes, cap off any long day of strolling pedestrian-friendly corridors. The city is known for the original Sacher-Torte, one of the most famous confections in the world. Since 1832 the Sacher Hotel, itself a gorgeous example of Viennese style, has been serving slices of this rich chocolate cake filled with a thin layer of apricot jam and coated with chocolate icing. As decadent desserts go, the original Sacher-Torte is a crowning achievement.
But if you can’t get a seat in the hotel’s café, there are still plenty of opportunities for an after-dinner treat. Stop at any of the outdoor cafés along the pedestrian walks, many near St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and pick a cake slice from their menu. It will be delicious, especially accompanied by a cocktail, and the buzz from passers-by will make for exciting outdoor ambiance.
Away from many of the glitzy examples of
Viennese opulence and decadence, sits a grittier, more whimsical reflection of
the city’s traditional grandeur.
The Prater, a large public park in the
Leopoldstadt district, is home to one of the world’s oldest amusement
parks – and an impressive one at that. The massive, sprawling carnival houses
rollercoasters, funhouses, a train ride, carnival games and every amusement
park and kiddie ride imaginable. Enjoy traditional food and drink amidst
traditional fairytale scenery and characters.
Access to the Prater is free (individual
attractions charge), making it one of the best ways to engage with Vienna. Like
any typical carnival there is music tinkling through the air. Opulence here
comes in the form of neon lights and over-the-top funhouses. And the food is
just as decadent as anything you’ll find at the Saccher Hotel.
But there is a fun, lighthearted flare
to the Prater that is absent from many other locales in Vienna. It doesn’t take
itself too seriously, such as at the bumper car venue with the U.S.A. theme -
it is decorated with a laughable array of American stereotypes, from the
Hollywood blonde to the Texas cowboy.
The crown jewel is the Vienna Riesenrad,
or Giant Ferris Wheel. Built in 1897, it is just as much as part of the city’s
history and identity as St. Stephen’s Cathedral or the Saccher Torte. The Giant
Ferris Wheel encompasses all the best traits of Vienna, and offers quite the
view in the process.
Whether you’re leisurely ambling past a priceless palace or screaming
around a Prater rollercoaster, you can be sure that music, opulence and
decadence are everywhere in Vienna. And you don’t have to be descended from the
Hapsburgs to enjoy every bit of it.