Monday, January 28, 2013

Majesty of Vienna - Monthly Column



Wherever It Takes: Majesty of Vienna's St. Stephen's Cathedral

By Michael Hartigan
Jan 28, 2013 

Any tourist with a Hawaiian shirt and point-and-shoot knows that photography, at any skill level, goes hand-in-hand with travel. For me, traveling is a chance to tell a story, and taking pictures adds to that opportunity in a vivid, visceral and inherently memorable way, whether I’m across the Atlantic or just up at the lake.

I am by no means a professional photographer, but with a little luck and a few minutes on Photoshop, I’ve captured some moments that look professional enough to adorn my walls, my desktop or my Facebook page. I’ve snapped stills of mountains and monuments, statues and street performers, during the day and at night, in clear weather, cloudy skies and during those magical golden hours when the sun hits just right. Besides writing about travel, photographing it — no matter where or when — is the next best souvenir.

I have to imagine that for professional photographers, there are certain specific locations around the world that offer an unlimited supply of picture-perfect subjects. The Eiffel Tower, perhaps, or the snowcapped Alps, or the neon lights of Vegas — the pros must have their favorites. All those experts must have that one spot on earth that evokes all the history and emotion of a live visit, simply by seeing it in a photo album.

If by some freak act of aperture a professional photographer asked my opinion on the matter, I could pick from some colorful places. I’ve captured bright greens in the grass along Ireland’s Cliffs of Moher, deep blues in Wyoming’s big sky country and fiery reds in the chili peppers strung from eaves in Santa Fe.

There is little doubt, though, that the one place I’ve visited that made a permanent mark on my camera, was St. Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna, Austria.

As one of the city's most recognizable landmarks, St. Stephen's is photographed countless times a day. On my visit, camera in hand, I climbed to the top, stared out over its scaled, multi-colored roof, strolled in awe underneath the massive pipe-organ and studied the intricate external carvings. Through my lens, I realized there must be thousands of possibilities for the perfect shot.

Immediately upon exiting the subway station in Vienna at Stephansplatz, the cathedral dominates the Austrian sky. The immense gothic structure acts as a hub of sorts for Vienna's main thoroughfare. To the right and left, the pedestrian-friendly road leads to high-end shopping, outdoor cafes serving slices of Vienna's famed pastries, and more of the city's landmark sites. But it's hard not to stop and strain your neck up for a full glimpse of the huge door and ornate towers at the cathedral’s front entrance.

I walked into two people as I circumnavigated the St. Stephen’s perimeter, simply because I was looking up.

Gargoyles and elaborate gothic detailing covered the outside walls and spires, giving St. Stephen's Cathedral an eerie magnificence. It was a beauty I found nostalgically familiar, reminiscent of historic movies and images. Then I stepped back a few steps and gazed up at the roof. Like dragon scales, the half-moon tiles shimmered in bright greens and yellows and reds. The mammoth mosaic formed the traditional Hapsburg double-eagle, along with the coats of arms for the city of Vienna and the country of Austria. This location was home to two previous churches, but what I saw was rebuilt and restored after a World War II fire.

Inside, the sunlight fractured through ceiling-high stained glass. After I awed at the massive pipe organ above the entrance, the full beauty of St. Stephen's interior unveiled up and down the center aisle. An ornately decorated pulpit stood close to one end and pews wove up through a series of grand pillars. An ironwork gate could have been a piece of art in itself, but amongst the beautiful glasswork, intricate gothic styling and checkerboard floor, it seemed almost dull.

Even after all the exterior and interior finds, St. Stephen's had one more spectacle to offer. I ascended the tower to the perch and walkway among the gutters and gargoyles where I got an up-close look at that elaborate roof. And of course, I was awarded a stunning panoramic view of the bustling Vienna. It was the perfect first stop on my trip to this city. From up high, I could see most of the other landmark's I’d want to visit, from the amusement park across the river and it's famous, old-time ferris wheel, all the way to the ornately decorated opera house.

My camera was snapping constantly. While I was up there on the roof, I had to try not to get caught up taking too many photos. There would be plenty more opportunities for great shots around Vienna. Many of them were right back down inside St. Stephen's Cathedral.

So I tucked my camera away. I had to see this exquisite site with my own eyes. I do love writing about travel and photographing travel. But some things just can’t be fully enjoyed through a lens.

Mike Hartigan of Saugus, an alumnus of St. John’s Prep, is a writer and traveler looking for good story, wherever it takes. Follow along at www.whereverittakes.com or on Twitter @WhereverItTakes


Read more: Wherever It Takes: Majesty of Vienna's St. Stephen's Cathedral - Danvers, MA - Danvers Herald http://www.wickedlocal.com/danvers/newsnow/x1240944026/Wherever-It-Takes-Majesty-of-Viennas-St-Stephens-Cathedral#ixzz2JK0i5kQ3


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