Into the wild in Washington, D.C.

While the nation focused this fall on who will occupy the White House, Washington, D.C.’s wilder residents were roaring for attention.

Elephants and donkeys are all over this city, but they are also literally walking around our nation’s capital for anyone to see – right there near the panda bears.

When it comes to visiting Washington, D.C., the monuments and museums take center stage, and rightfully so. Especially for first-timers, that initial glimpse of the Washington Monument or the Lincoln Memorial or any of the National Mall’s landmarks, is a much-anticipated moment; and exploring the halls of the Smithsonian museums to see iconic American symbols, from airplanes to ruby slippers, is unforgettable. And as someone who worked in the city for years, I know that the excitement rarely wanes with multiple visits. For me, every glimpse of the Capitol’s magnificent dome still elicits a proud, patriotic spine tingle. 

But despite all of Washington’s tourist must-dos, one spot rates at the top of my list: the Smithsonian National Zoo. Sprawling but with an intimate, compact feel, the National Zoo has undergone considerable work over recent years, adding new animals and updated environments. The result is a thoroughly enjoyable zoological experience for all ages. The array of wildlife is diverse and the commitment to conservation is apparent everywhere from the elephant house to the panda pen. And like many of the city’s top attractions, it is free of charge.

I first fell in love with the Smithsonian National Zoo when I was a graduate student finishing up my degree in Washington, D.C. The housing offered by my program was located on Connecticut Avenue, a fair distance from any of the city’s main downtown monuments and museums, but just a few blocks away from D.C.’s best attraction.

I relished early morning, or early evening walks or jogs through the zoo. I would take any opportunity to get in before the gates closed and make my way around the park, down the main thoroughfare past cheetahs, zebras, elephants and various apes. Circling down around the lions and tigers, donkeys and meerkats, I would then loop down to the American animal pavilion to my favorite stop: the otters.

There really is nothing like having a zoo to yourself; especially during cooler dusk hours when the D.C. humidity subsides (sometimes) and prompts the animals to come out and about.

Ten years later, I make it a point to visit the zoo whenever I’m in the District. On a recent trip, I had the luxury of getting in before closing. I started in the newer Asia Trail section and was disappointed that many of the animals had seemingly tucked away already for the evening. Even my otter friends – both in the Asia section and further down in the America section – were nowhere to be found. The panda house was closed and only one elephant lumbered about the open-air enclosure.

Frustrated, I walked over to the big cat ring, where the lions and tigers make their home on hilly tableaus. Not much to see in the first two, but as I came around the circle to one of the lion sections, I bumped into a large crowd.

Several lions were standing at the edge of the water down below in the enclosure. They were staring, hungrily up at the crowd. A woman, with a dog on a leash, was laughing. The lions were making jerky motions and noises, clearly agitated and appearing almost as if they were ready to pounce. They were watching the dog. For the most part, the dog ignored them but when he finally caught wind of the predators below, his anxiety exploded.

The scene was surreal. A nervous dog, obviously in no danger perched high above a pride of lions, obviously in no position to attack. But the dog didn’t know this and yipped and bounced. And the lions didn’t know this, and proceeded to formulate a strategy for hunting and consuming the canine. It was a strange morphing of nature and I was lucky enough to catch a glimpse (and some video).

The experience wasn’t one that could be replicated ever again, which is why I enjoy the National Zoo above D.C.’s other attractions. Whereas most of the monuments are satisfying in their steadfast symbolism, at the zoo you rarely see the same thing twice and you’re guaranteed a wild time.

A Weekend in Washington, D.C.

Spend too much time in Washington, D.C. and its multitude of treasures can fade from vision. Spend too little, and you miss more than you know. Such is the dual nature of a city built on twos (two major political parties, two chambers of Congress). So it is only appropriate that spending two days here provides ample opportunity to take in America's capital city.

Make no mistake, a weekend jaunt to D.C. is not a relaxing vacation. Like most pedestrian-friendly tourist destinations, walking is required here. And summertime walking - with oppressive humidity and heat – should not be taken lightly. But this is also one of America's most beautiful metropolis centers: thoughtfully laid out, artfully designed in the Francophile style of the founding fathers, and stuffed to the hilt with historical, cultural, gastronomical and just plain whimsical sights. 

To see them all, to really see everything in, on and around them all, you'd need an extended stay. And even then, the transient nature of DC and the over-abundance of surrounding distractions would make that accomplishment more difficult than uniting the colonies. There are so many close daytrips and side excursions. Whether up to Baltimore's harbor, over to the shores of the Chesapeake, down to Virginia's burgeoning wine country or out to refreshing Appalachia, it becomes easy to stray from the city limits. 

But with a weekend, a good pair of sneakers, a filled water bottle and a loose plan, you can focus on downtown and conquer D.C. And with a slew of free museums and monuments, you can do so on the cheap.

The majority of D.C.’s sights are clustered downtown, on or tangential to the National Mall. The National Mall, however, is formidable in length. Long and rectangular, it stretches from Capitol Hill in the East to the Lincoln Memorial in the West.

The best way to begin tackling any city is to seek high ground in the morning and get a lay of the land.

Unfortunately, the most obvious choice in D.C., the Washington Monument, is not an option. Due to a 2011 earthquake, the famous obelisk is currently closed and covered in scaffolding for repairs. But close by at the intersection of 12^th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue is the Old Post Office, complete with a soaring clock tower that offers visitors a sweeping panoramic view of the city. Built in 1899 and currently run by the National Park Service, the Old Post Office is free to enter and to take the glass elevator to the tower’s top. The incredible view engulfs all of the city’s major monuments, a treat you wouldn’t even get from the Washington Monument.

While atop the clock tower, you’ll notice the massive dome of the U.S. Capitol watching over the city. After leaving the Old Post Office, continue your morning by heading in that direction. Utilize the Metro, Washington’s subway system, which is easily navigated, well-marked and stations are generally conveniently located.

One of the most recognizable buildings in the world, the U.S. Capitol is home to America’s Legislative branch of government. Regardless of your political philosophy, the structure is overwhelmingly beautiful, with its columns and soaring white dome capped by the Statue of Freedom. That’s just the outside.

Touring the inside of the Capitol unveils not just government, but the history of American progress and the pioneers who sparked it. The halls are immaculately adorned, and watched over by statues of historic difference-makers. Only a limited number of same-day tour tickets are available, but a quick call to your Member of Congress will get you reservations in advance. Also inquire about gallery passes, which if Congress is in session will nab you a chance to see the Floor in action.

After a morning at the Capitol, explore the Capitol Hill grounds and loop around to the Supreme Court and Library of Congress. Both are worth a visit and require only as much time as you see fit. Guests at the Supreme Court are encouraged to walk the halls, while docent-led tours at the Library of Congress take you through extraordinary art and architecture, not to mention the full breadth of the word’s literary masterpieces.

Leaving Capitol Hill on its South side brings you down Independence Avenue, past the Botanical Gardens to the Smithsonian American Indian Museum. Free to enter, head into this museum for lunch – yes, lunch – after taking in the smooth, curvaceous exterior imbued with Native American symbolism. The cafeteria located on the museum’s basement level offers native, authentic and delicious dishes from around the country, like fry bread and buffalo chili. 

After refueling, it is a short walk next door to one of the most visited museums in the world: the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. Upon entering this massive complex, heads immediately crane upwards to gaze at actual aircraft seemingly suspended mid-flight. Aside from the planes, military and spacecraft hanging all around the building, this free museum offers creative exhibits ranging from the Wright Brothers’ first flight to an in-depth look at World War II aircraft carriers.

If there is still time left in the day, the National Museum of Natural History and the National Gallery of Art are located directly across the Mall from the Air and Space Museum. Regardless of which you choose, do not miss the sculpture garden nestled in between the two museums. The large circular fountain at the garden’s hub, with larger-than-life works of art dotted amongst the trees and flowers. On Friday evenings in the summer, jazz bands play from a makeshift stage and vendor carts sell pitchers of sangria. Relaxing under a tree next to a massive metal sculpture, sipping a cold drink and listening to music – no better way to end a day in D.C.

Day two takes you to the other side of the National Mall and entails a bevy of outdoor eye-candy. Grab a hearty breakfast (donuts from GBD in Dupont Circle should do the trick) and a bottle of cold water before you begin your day.

Starting across the Tidal Basin at the Thomas Jefferson Memorial gives a whole different perspective of the city. The memorial itself is stunning, a scaled down version of Rome’s Pantheon, complete with a massive Jefferson statue that has its gaze fixed across the water at the White House. The line of sight is clear, as builder’s wanted Jefferson to always be able to keep an eye on the Office of the President. 

Skirt the Tidal Basin to the West and come upon two of the most moving monuments in the city. Meander through the Franklin D. Roosevelt Memorial, touching upon each stage of his extraordinary tenure in the White House, from the Depression through World War II. It is a serene yet surreal layout, with water features and a deity-like statue of Roosevelt and his dog that assuredly makes an impact. Continuing along the water’s edge brings you to the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial, a striking and powerful homage to the civil rights leader.

A quick stroll to the National Mall will bring you to the foot of the Washington Monument and the World War II Memorial. At the beautiful WWII memorial, visitors reflect upon the sacrifice made by servicemembers, while admiring the symbolism wreathed around every crevice of this beautiful site. The pylons bearing the names of the states and U.S. territories are laid out in order of statehood.

If there were ever a perfect time for a picnic lunch, this would be it, parked along the Tidal Basin or on the Mall. But if air conditioning is a priority, head to Old Ebbitt Grill, a historic oyster bar and Washington, D.C. staple. After filling up, you’re in position to join the throngs snapping photos of the most famous house in the world – the White House. Be sure to see both sides of the Presidential mansion, circling around to the Ellipse.

From there, make your way back along the Mall to the far West end, where Abraham Lincoln awaits upon his gargantuan stone chair. After you’ve read the inscriptions of Lincoln’s most famous words carved into the monument, visit the somber memorials to the Vietnam and Korean wars flanking it.

The cherry on top of a day in the District can be found at any number of top-notch eateries. The D.C. restaurant scene is a bustling one, from the high end to the low. For a burger and a beer - or one of a few hundred beers – the Bier Baron is a basement dive bar with a massive beer list. Or go more upscale at Birch & Barley in the Logan Circle neighborhood, or downtown at the tapas-inspired Jaleo, run by famed chef Jose Andres.

Without a doubt, America’s capital city is bursting with significant sights and sounds, much more than can be experienced in a weekend. But with a good game plan and a little enthusiasm, two days in D.C. is plenty to get at the heart of America’s capital city.